Name: Marie-Moana Troja
Birthday : 18th of september 1997
Place where you live now : my luggage (but also French Polynesia)
Describe yourself in three words:
Happy, positive, dynamic
In the morning I wake up, put my bikinis on, have breakfast and go surfing. When I am home in Polynesia, I can see the waves from my kitchen so no need to go for a check. Then I usually spend the whole day in the water either surfing, swimming, enjoying the sun. Can’t be far away from the ocean for too long.
What is it that you like about SurfAce/What made you like SurfAce?
I really like Surface because the swimwear are very comfortable and do stay on. We don’t need to worry about losing them when we surf. They are not only comfy but also super cute. Definitely the best combo!
Please introduce yourself and tell us about your background. What’s your story and what kind of experiences have made you who you are today?
I am an island girl who grew up in Reunion Island from a Tahitian mother and one of the pioneer of surfing in Reunion. When I was 13, a terrible shark situation started on the island and made me move at the age of 14 to Australia to keep surfing and following my dreams. My sister was already living on the Gold Coast, so I just joined her and started living the dream. I was homeschooled so I could surf everyday. Pretty amazing life for a 14 years old girl !
My parents joined us 2 years after and tried to settle. They unfortunately could not stay in Australia and decided to go live in Tahiti since it is where my mother is from. I followed them on their way back to . I was 19. Since I finished school, at the age of 18 I am travelling and following the QS series to qualify on the WSL tour.
What made you start surfing? How old were you?
My dad inspired me surfing. He never pushed me to but when I was little I asked him to bring me out there with him. I was always seeing him going with his surfboard so I wanted to do like him. At the age of 6 I received my first surfboard for Christmas and I was definitely hooked.
What does surfing mean to you? What influence or inspiration does it bring to your life?
Surfing means everything to me. I just can’t see my life without it. I even left my family when I was young to keep that healthy and beautiful lifestyle around the ocean and try to live of it.
What does the ocean mean to you?
The ocean is my playground, my home. I try to do my best to protect it.
Fun fact about me : I grew up on a island and since I am born I am seeing the ocean almost everyday so whenever I am not close to it for a few days I am not feeling good, not feeling happy. Just seeing it can change my day.
Moana means ocean and it is actually part of my first name so I definitely feel that I am made to live around the ocean.
What is the most scary thing that has happened to you in the ocean so far?
About a year ago in Polynesia I surfed a very sweepy break and I got cut in the current 海流for maybe 20 minutes. I could not paddle in, I could not get in the waves and it was quite big. I was very scared and getting tired but eded up going on the reef to be able to catch a white wash. It’s crazy how the ocean can seem so nice and friendly but within just a few minutes can be very impressive and scary.
What is the funniest thing that has happened to you in the ocean so far?
The other day when I went surfing with my sister from another mother, Heivanui it was very small and slow. We were so bored that we started singing very loud and it actually made the sets more consistent. We kept singing the whole session and it was hilarious because we were singing funny songs and my singing skill is less than average. We definitely had the best time. I love surfing with her because every session is a session of full laugh and good vibes.
When you don’t surf, do you do other trainings/exercise?
When I don’t surf I do work out to keep a good physical condition.
I am sport lover so when I am home I do lots of hikes, bike rides, water ski,etc. I try to be the more active I can, anything that makes my body move I love it.
What is your most important beauty secret?
I put Monoi oil or coconut in my hair once a month when I know that I am not going in the sun (otherwise it burns your hair).
It nourish your hair and will make it very soft and shiny.
What is the most fascinating sea animal or creature for you?
To me the most fascinating animal is the sea turtle. Every time there is a turtle around in the water, I feel a great and positive energy.
It is such an amazing creature that will always make me so blessed to be out there.
What is your favorite surfing spot, why?
No doubts, Saint-Leu, in Reunion Island. It’s an amazing, powerful left hander. And the fact that is where I grew up makes it even more special.
I did not surf this wave until I was about 13 because the reef is really sharp and my father did not want me to hurt myself.
Unfortunately we can’t surf in Reunion anymore because of the many shark attacks…
Which spot have you not been to yet, but really want to go one day?
I have been thinking a lot about going to south Africa lately and it’s a dream of mine to surf this amazing right of Jeffreys Bay. Definitely on the bucket list.
What exciting plans or goals do you have for this year that you want to reach or get done for sure?
I would love to get as many footage and photos as possible over the next year and travel in dreamy locations
to develop myself as a free surfer.
I will see what future has for me but I am not putting any pressure and am trying to enjoy myself as much as I can.
What is the last thing that you would like to
share and tell our SurfAce babes ?
Enjoy surfing, it is fun and you should never be frustrated with it. Always remember why you started, why you’re doing it and why you love it so much.
"The best surfer out there is the one who’s having the most fun"